Bell & Ross BR-X3: a choice of character between sky and earth
Ready for takeoff? A new chapter in Bell & Ross's flight instrument saga is here, and it's called the BR-X3. Although the history of the Parisian brand dates back to 1992, B&R is primarily known for its extraordinary aviation-inspired timepieces, starting with the launch of the BR-01 in 2005. At times design-oriented, at others purely functional, these watches are almost always linked to a specific instrument found aboard a jet fighter or airliner.
In recent years, the brand has also ventured into a slightly more informal and sometimes conceptual watchmaking space with the BR X series, which began with the BR-X1 in 2014, followed by the BR-X2 Skeleton Tourbillon Micro-Rotor in 2018, and the BR-X5 in 2022. Now, it's time for the BR-X3.
At first glance, the new BR-X3 might seem like a simple re-elaboration of the brand's timeless classic, the BR-03, celebrated for its "circular dial in a square case" aesthetic. In truth, the BR-X3 belongs to the "Experimental" collection for a good reason: it boasts a radically new case construction and details that define a superior positioning.
The case, available in Black Titanium (micro-blasted Grade 2 titanium) or Blue Steel (satin-finished and polished steel), maintains the balanced dimensions of 41 mm x 41 mm of the revamped BR-03, but is notably thicker (13.3 mm), a detail that underscores its construction complexity.
Multi-Layer Architecture: The Sandwich Case
The architecture is built in a "sandwich" style, composed of several layers:
- Bezel and Plinth: The circular bezel rests on an element that is black on the Titanium model and blue on the Steel one.
- Mid-Section: Between the upper and lower plates, secured by the signature functional screws, a round barrel houses the movement and dial, with visible pillars at each corner.
- Crown Guard: The screw-down crown, a classic B&R feature, is now protected by angular guards in steel or black DLC-coated titanium, depending on the version.
This clever interplay of shapes and materials—with the total blackening of the inner layers on the Titanium, and the use of blue anodized aluminum for the uprights on the Steel—lends the BR-X3 a unique and sophisticated character, typical of the X series.
The Dial: Three-Layer Functional Complexity
As is traditional for the Experimental line, the BR-X3's display adds notable depth and visual complexity:
- "X" Structure: The dial is built on three layers and features the characteristic X-shaped design, which frames the most important indications.
- Highlighted Complications: The date window (showing three numbers in an altimeter style) is clearly visible at 3 o'clock, while the practical power reserve indicator (with E for Empty and F for Full, marking the 3-day duration) is found at 9 o'clock.
- Luxury Details: The applied indices and skeletonized hands are generously filled with white Super-LumiNova X1 with green emission, ensuring absolute legibility. An elegant, angled rehaut (inner flange) completes the design with minute and second indications.
The Heart of the Watch: The BR-CAL.323 Caliber
The feature that most elevates the BR-X3's position in high watchmaking is its engine: the Calibre BR-CAL.323. This is a Manufacture automatic movement developed in collaboration with Kenissi, providing an impressive 70-hour power reserve and operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Crucially, the calibre is COSC Chronometer certified, confirming that the aesthetic ambition is supported by impeccable mechanical precision. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback (clear on the Blue Steel and smoked on the Black Titanium), allowing one to admire the mechanism and the oscillating weight.
In summary, the Bell & Ross BR-X3 is not a simple update. It is a bold statement that merges the brand's aeronautical iconography with modern multi-layered case architecture and certified mechanical excellence. A courageous design choice, supported by an impeccable engine.
